Once you're out on the water, make a chart on your notepad that lists out the different rpm ranges in increments of 500, from 1000 to 6000, or as appropriate for the boat. Write these down the left side of a piece of paper. Then make separate columns along the top: two for speed and one for sound level, one for inclination and one for gallons per hour, if the boat has fuel flow information at the dash. You need two columns for speed so you can take two readings in opposite directions, then average them together, to cancel out the effects of wind and current.
LENNY RUDOWThe anchor locker holds a lot of clues about a boat.
For taking inclination readings, you can get an inclinometer at any marine supply store that serves sailors; most have inexpensive ($10 to $20) plastic models with a bead that floats in a graduated curve, showing the angle of inclination. Simply mount it using a strip of duct tape on a flat surface of the boat, positioned fore to aft, with the bead at "0" when the boat is at rest.
The sound level (DBA) meter is also easy to find, though these cost a bit more at about $50. Radio Shack carries them, as do many other electronics stores. Using them is simple – just turn it on and you'll get a digital reading of sound level – but make sure you hold the meter behind the helm, where wind noise doesn't skew the results. Speed, of course, can be accurately measured with any GPS unit.
Set the throttles at 1000, and record your info–how fast you're going, how loud it is, how much bow rise there is, and how much fuel you're burning. Later, when you sit down and think about how different boats performed, having records of cruising speeds, fuel efficiency, sound levels and inclination will give you good hard facts to use for comparative purposes, when it comes to gauging performance and comfort.
Here (below) is a sample chart, collected on a sea trial of a Boston Whaler 32 Outrage, powered by twin 275–hp Mercury Verado outboards.
RPM
MPH1
MPH2
GPH
Level
DBA
1000
5.5.
5.7
1.6
0
61
1500
7.5
7.6
3.0
0
64
2000
8.9
9.1
5.2
1
68
2500
98
10.1
9.2
3
72
3000
12.3
12.3
14.2
5
76
3500
18.1
18.2
18
5
80
4000
26.1
26.2
19.4
3
82
4500
34.0
34.2
25.8
2
84
5000
38.8
39.1
36.4
2
86
5500
42.3
42.5
45
2
89
6000
49.7
49.9
51.2
1
92
You should also put the boat through a series of "helm tests" that will tell you how well the boat handles. With the speed set at a reasonable cruise, carve some S turns. Make a sharp U turn. Hit waves in a head, beam and following seas. This is your chance to find out how the boat will handle rough terrain, so don't be ginger–run it hard. If you can get it to bang on a few big waves, so much the better. Later, when you re–inspect the cabin, you'll see if a hard pounding shook anything free down there.
Finally, stop the boat and maneuver it as you would in close quarters; backing, opposing the motors (for twin–screw boats) and "walking" the boat sideways. Go from a dead stop to full throttle and note the time it takes to get onto plane. Then back the throttle down slowly, and note minimum planning speed before the boat falls off of plane. This is a very important detail because it tells you just how slowly you'll be able to plod along in rough seas, while still getting reasonable fuel economy and making a reasonable speed. Then ask yourself: do any flaws or stand–out attributes make themselves known?
Next, put the boat into neutral and simply let it drift. Anglers will want to note whether it drifts beam–to or stern–to in the seas (usually beam–to for inboards and stern–to for stern drives and outboards–but not always) and everyone will want to note how much it rocks and rolls.
Finally, sit in the passenger's chair, lounge or aft bench seat while someone else runs the boat. The helm is often one of the more comfortable positions to ride in, and getting a feel for how your passengers will fare at sea is something you'll want to do now, not after you subject the wife and kids to a hell ride.
When your sea trial is complete, take the wheel again. Make sure you run the boat back to the dock, and try putting it in its slip or onto the trailer to get a feel for just how tough these maneuvers will be in the future. Back at the dock, give the entire boat another once–over. Look for items that may have vibrated loose, hatches or cabinets that swung open, furniture that moved and any other indications that the boat isn't ready for prime–time.
Lenny Rudow was senior technical editor for Boating Magazine for more than 10 years, and is currently the electronics editor for Marlin and GoBoating magazines.


























