We all get nostalgic about the "good old days" when boating was simpler. That is, until we remember things like dragging that anchor rode back aboard – especially if it had a significant amount of chain attached.
Recollections like that are one reason the anchor windlass is among the most popular options on new boats, and one of the more frequently added accessories on older craft.
Choosing a windlass involves a couple of key decisions, such as the type of unit (drum or gypsy), the orientation (horizontal or vertical) and the size. You must also think through how the unit will be powered, how it will be controlled and any special considerations associated with installation on your boat.
The increasing number of models at different price points – most of them extremely reliable with little maintenance – makes these decisions fairly simple. Before you lay your money down, study your options, talk to others who own the same boat and see if they will demonstrate their windlass. Shop around for the best deals on components, and make sure you follow the manufacturer's suggestions.
Installing a windlass can be worthwhile – the back you save may be your own – but the execution can be difficult if not thought through.
WINDLASS CHOICES
Windlass units can first be distinguished by the part of the unit that actually handles the chain or anchor line. There are two types, gypsies and drums.
Gypsies are used to handle rope/chain rodes and are shaped like a small metal wheel. The rim of the wheel, where the tread is on a tire, has pockets that fit the chain and a deep V-groove that grips the rope portion of the rode. The pockets are sized for specific chain, so that part of your rode must match the gypsy.
Shackles will jam a windlass with a gypsy, so the anchor line will need to be spliced to the chain. Tests and experience have shown that properly executed splices are almost as strong as either component. Most windlass manufacturers either sell rodes or can recommend a supplier. An experienced rigging shop can also do the splice for you if you want a rode configuration that is not readily available.
Drums look like sailboat winches, and are much wider than a gypsy. Drums work only with line – never chain – and some drums have a rough surface to improve grip. Several turns are wrapped around the drum to provide enough friction to pull the line. You will have to "tail" the windlass like a winch, keeping tension on the free end of the line to make use of the unit's power without having the line slip.
Some modern units feature both a gypsy and a drum, allowing some flexibility when you set and take up the hook.
WINDLASS ORIENTATION
The next design feature that distinguishes windlass units is the orientation. Some are horizontal, and some are vertical.
Horizontal windlasses have the main shaft parallel to the horizon, much like the manual windlasses found on old sailing ships. In this case, the motive power is provided by an electric motor mounted behind the main shaft, which drives it through a series of gears. Many horizontal windlasses come equipped with both a gypsy and a drum.
The advantage of a horizontal windlass is that it only requires that a few small mounting holes, as well as the hawsehole for the chain, be drilled through the deck. The downside is that the guts of the windlass – the gears and electric motor – are on deck and subject to the elements.
A vertical windlass has its main shaft running straight up and down. Most have only a gypsy, though some are available with a drum mounted on top of the gypsy. The advantage of the vertical windlass is that most of the important and expensive parts are below decks and out of the weather. The vertical windlass, unless equipped with a drum, also has a much lower profile, meaning you are less likely to trip over it. The disadvantage is that a much larger hole must be cut in the deck to accommodate the bulk of the motor and gearbox.
Windlasses can also be purchased with one of two operational modes: Power Up/Power Down and Free Fall. With the Power Up/Power Down windlass, you control both the paying out of the anchor rode as well as the retrieving electrically. In the Free-Fall mode, you need to be at the windlass to control the manual clutch release mechanism.
POWERING AND CONTROL
Unless they are powered manually or by hydraulics (which we will not discuss here), windlass units are electric. Most are powered via the 12-volt DC panel, though many larger boats are now using 24-volt systems.
Because most windlasses are power-hungry, many captains opt for a dedicated windlass battery. This is often mounted in the bow, close to the unit. The configuration eliminates the need for large cables, which are required to guard against excessive voltage drop if the windlass is powered by the house batteries farther aft. Instead, much smaller wires can be run back to the source charging the battery.
Whatever your configuration, you should consider a windlass with a provision for manual operation, in case of an electrical failure.
When the power is working, you'll need a means to control it. A toggle switch is the simplest control device. A switch with center off and momentary up and down positions will give you the ability to raise and lower rode. Foot switches – one for up and one for down – are other options.
Both these options have reliability problems if they are used to control the full windlass current. Remember, a windlass can pull more than 300 amps. A better solution is to use the controls to switch a heavy-duty windlass solenoid on and off. The solenoid is basically a relay sized to handle the large current loads. Low amperage current through the switch turns the solenoid on or off. A system using solenoids will also allow you to install additional controls at a remote location, such as the helm or flybridge.
